If you\u2019re like us and you like the smell of diesel in the morning, you\u2019re probably frothing over your next big trip. Whether you\u2019re heading up to the Cape, down to the High Country or you\u2019re simply spending the weekend down at your local campground, ensuring you get there and back in one piece is the key to a memorable trip.<\/p>\n
When it comes to your 4WD\u2019s maintenance, \u2018prevention is better than a cure\u2019\u2026 as they say. Particularly if yours has seen as many off-road kilometres as Shauno\u2019s Dirty 30. It\u2019s spent most of its life off-road, travelled to every corner of the country and done it all without breaking a sweat\u2026 or breaking down. And that\u2019s largely thanks to Shauno\u2019s meticulous pre-trip maintenance.<\/p>\n
We\u2019re going to walk you through the step-by-step of how we maintain all of our trucks; in particular, how we prepare old trucks like Shauno\u2019s for a big trip. We\u2019ll show you what to check, how long parts are supposed to last and the early warnings signs to watch out for, plus the tools and spares you need to ensure your 4WD will go the distance in the bush.<\/p>\n
\u201cThe last thing you want in the Simmo is a busted driveline,\u201d Shaun reckons. \u201cIf you haven\u2019t done it in a while, it\u2019s worth treating the driveline to fresh oils because it costs next to nothing.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Changing the diff and transfer case oils is generally straightforward; just make sure you refill them with the correct grade of oil, level with the top filler plug.<\/p>\n
While you\u2019re down there, pull the breather hoses off and make sure they\u2019re not blocked. Gearbox oil can be a bit trickier depending where the filler is, and whether it\u2019s auto or manual, but both these jobs are made easier if you buy a $15 hand pump from your local auto store.<\/p>\n
Those with an automatic transmission should consider fitting an oil cooler. The heat and stress that comes with towing or sand driving plays havoc with autos and can result in loss of drive. Crack out your Illuminator 24 LED Work Light to get a good look at any under vehicle components that are hard to see. Also check for excessive play in your uni joints. Grab a hold of each drive shaft and rotate it back and forth. If you notice any play or it feels notchy, you\u2019ll need to have the uni joints replaced. If there\u2019s nothing out of the ordinary, a few pumps of the grease gun and they\u2019ll be ready to go.<\/p>\n
Last but not least, grab your Adventure Kings Spanner Set and nip up every nut and bolt you can find up. And if you\u2019re going somewhere real rough, consider marking all the main ones with a white marker so you can visually see if it has loosened during your travels.<\/p>\n
UNDER THE BONNET<\/h4>\n
\u201cStart by giving everything a good gernie,\u201d Shaun says. \u201cSpend five minutes wiping all the messy bits down with a rag or a soft bristled brush and some degreaser, all the while checking for rubbed through wires, cracked brackets and missing nuts and bolts.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Check your belts for cracks and correction tension; there should be about 10mm of deflection at the longest straight section of the belts. Belts generally last around 80,000km.Coolant hoses should be soft. If they\u2019ve done more than 100,000km, are old or crunchie or weeping coolant, swap them out before you head off.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s worth pressure testing the cooling system and cap if you can. It\u2019ll identify any problem areas that may leak when the engine is under pressure, like a leaking water pump, thermostat or welsh plugs. Visually check for things like white stains around coolant hoses, low coolant levels, dirt build-up in the radiator and loose hose clamps.<\/p>\n
Run your hand over all of the wiring and fuel lines, checking for chafing, loose connections, corrosion or leaks.<\/p>\n
Make sure you\u2019re changing your engine oil every 5,000km and the cooling system is flushed once a year. Fuel filters should be done every 20,000km, and your air filter every 10,000km. When you do the maths; it works out a lot cheaper than a rebuild.<\/p>\n
The power steering fluid should be bright in colour and clear. If it\u2019s burnt, brown or milky, it\u2019ll need to be flushed. The same goes for your ATF. Brake and clutch fluid should be flushed every year, or sooner if you\u2019ve done a heap of water crossings. Make sure it\u2019s not milky, and if it has a black discolouration, there\u2019s a chance the master cylinder seals are on their way out. If they are, it will usually leak down along the booster\/firewall or the pedal will feel soft.<\/p>\n
STEERING AND SUSPENSION<\/h4>\n
\u201cYour steering and suspension is what keeps your tyres planted firmly on the ground and they play an important role in vehicle safety. Not to mention, problematic suspension will chew out tyres quick smart.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Start by checking the springs and shocks. Look for damage to the shock body, cracks around spring and shock mounts and leaking from the shock\u2019s shaft seal.<\/p>\n
Check for free play in the steering linkages and ball joints using a pry bar. Look for cracks and stress marks in suspension bushes, and replace them if needed. Most bushes will do 100,000km or more, but if you\u2019re into super flexy rock crawling, it may chew them out within a matter of months. If your suspension is on its last legs before a big trip, it might be a smart idea just to replace everything with a quality suspension setup like a Raw 4×4 Kit.<\/p>\n
Jack up the front of the truck and hold the tyre at the north and south positions and rock the wheel back and forth. If there is free play or clunking noises, your wheel bearings need some attention. Then grab the tyre at the east and west positions and rock it from side to side; any play there may indicate a steering issue such as worn ball joints, steering rack or tie-rod ends. Wheel bearings should be regreased before any big trip, and replaced if there are any signs of corrosion or metallic wear.<\/p>\n
TYRES AND BRAKES<\/h4>\n
\u201cImagine being half way up an epic hill climb when your handbrake let\u2019s go. Or a Roo jumps out at you on a blind corner and your brake pedal sinks to the floor. Yep, it\u2019s not a pleasant feeling and it\u2019s totally avoidable.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Check brakes for blue discolouration, scoring or glazing. Replace any cracked or brittle hoses. And check the minimum thickness of pads, shoes, discs and drums, and replace them with quality parts. Brakes are one thing you definitively can\u2019t skimp on. In a 4WD, brakes may only last 20-40,000km \u2013 and if you drive in mud all the time \u2013 they\u2019ll need a service after every trip to prevent them seizing.<\/p>\n
Check the brake callipers and wheel cylinders while you\u2019re in there. Some brake drums (like a Patrol handbrake) have inspection holes on the backing plate that are usually hidden behind a rubber grommet. Remove the grommet so you can check the brake shoe\u2019s lining. Don\u2019t forget your handbrake. Make sure it\u2019s got plenty of meat on the shoes; slacken off the handbrake cable and nip up the adjuster on the handbrake drum according to the workshop manual.<\/p>\n
Tightening the cable alone will only stretch the cable. And while you\u2019ve got the wheels off, inspect all tyres for signs of damage, scrubbing, bulges in the sidewalls and tread depth. A low tread depth not only reduces the available traction, but also increases the risk of a puncture.<\/p>\n
ELECTRICAL<\/h4>\n
\u201dThere are more and more electronics in 4WDs these days, and while it might seem a bit daunting, 12V work isn\u2019t all that bad.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Check driving light operation and alignment. Drive up to a wall and make sure your driving lights are not shooting possums. Then when you get off-road on a nice open stretch you can fine tune their alignment.<\/p>\n
Check battery and alternator output. With the engine off, the battery should be between 12.6-12.8V. Lower and she\u2019ll need a charge. Battery voltage should be above 13V at a minimum with the engine running, and you\u2019ll know the battery is near full charge if it\u2019s between 13.8V-14.5V. If the voltage flickers all over the place with the engine running, there\u2019s a good chance the alternator is buggered.<\/p>\n
If it\u2019s a serviceable battery, top up the electrolyte to the high marks with distilled water. Check earths are clean and free of corrosion, and tightly secured to the body or chassis. Nip them up with an Adventure Kings Socket if needed. If you\u2019re towing, check the trailer light operation. The most common cause of a faulty connection is when the female pins work themselves apart, reducing the quality of the connection. And finally, go through and remove relays one by one, checking they\u2019re free from mud and corrosion. Give them a spray with WD-40 and put them back in, or replace any suspect looking ones.<\/p>\n
TOOLS AND SPARES TO CARRY<\/h4>\n
\n
- Air and fuel filter<\/li>\n
- Adventure Kings Ultimate Bush Mechanic Toolkit<\/li>\n
- Set of belts and hoses<\/li>\n
- 5L engine oil, 5L gearbox oil, brake fluid<\/li>\n
- Hercules Tyre repair kit<\/li>\n
- Fencing wire<\/li>\n
- Duct tape<\/li>\n
- Self-bonding tape<\/li>\n
- Cable ties<\/li>\n
- Hose clamps<\/li>\n
- Headlight globe<\/li>\n
- Brake light globe<\/li>\n
- Range of fuses<\/li>\n
- Epoxy super glue<\/li>\n
- Fire-extinguisher<\/li>\n
- Mix of bolts, nuts, washers<\/li>\n
- Self-adhesive tape<\/li>\n
- WD40<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
If you\u2019re like us and you like the smell of diesel in the morning, you\u2019re probably frothing over your next big trip. Whether you\u2019re heading up to the Cape, down to the High Country or you\u2019re simply spending the weekend down at your local campground, ensuring you get there and back in one piece is…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":123456,"featured_media":93,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/92"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/123456"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=92"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/92\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5439,"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/92\/revisions\/5439"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/93"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=92"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=92"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/news.emgcloud.net\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=92"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}