![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.4wdsupacentre.com.au\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DIY-exhaust-Install.jpg\")
<\/p>\n\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n
DIFFICULTY LEVEL:<\/strong> 1 out of 5 EASY!<\/span><\/p>\n MATERIALS REQUIRED:<\/strong>\u00a0Domin8r Exhaust system<\/a>, penetrating spray, anti-seize paste<\/span><\/p>\n TOOLS: <\/strong>\u00a0Adventure Kings socket set<\/a> and spanner set<\/a>, Complete 74 piece toolkit<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n TIME:<\/strong> 2 hours<\/span><\/p>\n \n Want to unleash more power, torque without it affecting your fuel economy? By fitting a high-flow Domin8r exhaust system<\/a> you can have your cake and eat it too! <\/span><\/p>\n A quality exhaust system<\/a> not only makes your 4WD sound better, but it also lets it breathe better, improving acceleration, power and torque right across the rev range. It’s made possible by removing the restrictive factory exhaust and replacing it with a high-flow system specifically designed to make power where we 4WDers need it. Thing is though, not all exhausts kits are created equally and you really need to know what you’re looking for to avoid paying too much.<\/span><\/p>\n Firstly, to get real results you’ll need to replace the whole system from the turbo back, not just from the catalytic converter back. Look for a kit that includes a high-flow dump pipe, catalytic converter and muffler, one that is already fitted with EGT and air\/fuel sensor ports, has interlocking flanges and is constructed out of either 3in mandrel bent aluminised steel or 409 stainless – anything less just won’t cut it in the bush. <\/span><\/p>\n One system that delivers just that is the new Domin8r exhaust systems<\/a>. Supplied as a full DIY bolt-in kit and posted to your door, all Domin8r exhaust systems<\/a> are designed to be fitted at home without any need for cutting, bending or welding; and with kits starting from around $650, the Domin8r 3in high-flow exhaust system <\/a>represents great value for money. <\/span><\/p>\n Let’s take a look at just how easy it is…<\/span><\/p>\n \n Step 01<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n If your 4WD has seen its fair share of mud, dirt and sand; there’s a good chance the bolts and flanges will be covered in dirt, grit and corrosion. So first things first, it’s best to start with some penetrating spray like Inox or WD-40 onto the dump pipe nuts, flange bolts, rubber hangers and mounting bolts, to help make removal easier. If the old hangers have started to perish, grab a new set before you hook into the job, so you\u2019re not stuck with the truck pulled apart in the driveway while you solve the problem<\/span><\/p>\n \n Step 02<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Now that you\u2019ve given the penetrating spray some time to work, get onto the bolts that are holding the old system in place. The first flange to undo will be located just above the rear diff, and is held together with two 14mm flange bolts. Undo them, then pry the rubber hangers off the mounts using some spray lube to help ease them off. If you don\u2019t have a can of spray lube handy, try using soapy water to help slide the hangers off with a pry bar. This should see the rear muffler and section come off<\/span><\/p>\n TOP TIP!<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n To avoid rounding off any nuts or bolts, use single hex sockets and spanners for the job at hand. There are small differences between metric and imperial sizes, and if you get it wrong, you could end up turning a 2 minute job into a 2 hour headache. Generally, Japanese Nissans and Toyotas use metric fasteners, while American and European trucks use imperial. Exhaust fasteners aren’t very forgiving, so taking it easy is the trick to avoiding trouble along the way.<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n \n Step 03<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Next you\u2019ll get stuck into the centre muffler or the centre section. The same applies to this section with bolts and hangers, removing the whole section and getting it out of the way. To avoid overloading the dump pipe and flex joint once the rear hanger is removed, you may need to support the weight of the exhaust with a jack or stand<\/span><\/p>\n \n Step 04<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n With the centre muffler removed, all that remains is the catalytic converter, flex pipe and dump pipe. In our case, our D-4D HiLux utilises sprung bolts and a dome-shaped gasket in place of a traditional flexible pipe, which is easily removed. Just undo the two 14mm bolts holding the catalytic converter flange in place, pop the hangers off, disconnect the O2 sensor and then remove the pipe<\/span><\/p>\n \n Step 05<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n The final piece of the puzzle is removing the dump pipe. First, you’ll need to remove the turbo heat shield in order to gain access to the top dump pipe nut – it’s a pretty simple job as they’re generally only held in with a few 10mm hex bolts.<\/span><\/p>\n Most of the time, the dump pipe will only have a handful (3 in our case) of locking nuts holding it up to the back of the turbo. The bottom nuts can be tricky to get to, but can be undone easily with a socket, a few extensions and a swivel joint. These nuts are often quite soft, so take extra care not to round them off<\/span><\/p>\n \n Step 06<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n With the old dump pipe removed, now it\u2019s time to prep the new exhaust for installation. The Domin8r<\/a> system we’re installing has a pre-fabricated threaded port for an EGT sensor, and a second port for an air\/fuel ratio sensor. The HiLux we’re installing it into doesn\u2019t have any gauges installed, so we simply tightened the supplied bungs to ensure they wouldn’t come loose. The good news is we won’t have to worry about welding in a sensor port when it does come time to install the gauges<\/span><\/p>\n \n \n \n \n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.4wdsupacentre.com.au\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/DIY-exhaust-Install_3.jpg\")
<\/p>\n