WASHOUTS AND RUTS

Unfortunately, there’s no single answer to driving ruts and washouts with an offroad camper trailer in tow because each case is different. Since the camper trailer’s wheels don’t follow the wheels of the 4WD as soon as you begin to turn, you now have six different wheel lines to take into account. Chances are that it won’t be possible to straddle the ruts with all three axles, so you’ll have to choose which wheels should be allowed to drop into the ruts. In wet and slippery conditions, the best thing to do is to deliberately put one or both sets of your 4WDs wheels in the ruts, as camper trailer wheels are not powered and so they can’t provide any drive to help get you through.

Most of us already know the importance of good approach, departure and ramp-over angles, but when you hang a camper trailer on the back, you’ll need to remember that the offroad trailer’s angles might not be as generous. Sudden changes in angle between the 4WD and the 4wd trailer can cause the towbar or drawbar to hit the ground in places where the 4WD would normally have no problem on its own.

The only solution to this is to choose a different line to avoid the hazard, or to do some track building to lessen the angle. If contact with the earth can’t be avoided, take it slow and have someone guide you to minimise the damage.

STEEP TERRAIN

If you have electric trailer brakes, using the manual activation lever to apply a small amount of the brake drag will help keep everything in line

Towing a camper trailer up steep terrain usually means you’ll need to squeeze the go pedal a little harder to get the engine to produce more torque. Given your 4WDs rear wheels now have more weight on them, the front wheels will be more likely to break traction as the weight transfers to the rear. To combat this, you might need to lower the pressures in the front tyres so that the footprint of the front and rear tyres on the 4WD are the same.

Because the rear tyres are now doing most of the work, any wheel spin could easily stop you in your tracks. Maximise traction by engaging the rear diff lock if you have one fitted. If you have a good-old mechanical LSD, make sure you have enough momentum to carry you over any section that is likely to induce wheel spin. 

On steep downhills, the weight of the camper trailer wants to push the 4WD down the hill which reduces the effectiveness of engine braking. In really loose conditions, the trailer may even want to overtake the 4WD, especially if the trailer is fitted with mechanical override brakes.

The trick to getting down steep grades safely is to go slowly; a lot slower than you would normally and stick to low-range first gear. If you have an auto gearbox it’s a good idea to lock it into first gear. If you have traction aids like Hill Descent Control or a rear diff lock then use them. Don’t engage the front diff lock as this will compromise steering.

An added trick for those that have electric camper trailer brake is to use the manual activation lever to apply a small amount of the brake drag. Dragging the trailer brakes will dramatically reduce the chance of losing control. If you do this without touching the 4WD brakes (still crawling speed), it’ll help keep everything nice and straight.

WATER CROSSING

Just because you’re towing an offroad camper trailer, doesn’t mean you should forget basic 4WD principles. Water crossings should be checked before plunging in. Walk both wheel tracks taking note of water depth and current, what the bottom surface is like, and marking the location of any holes, boulders or submerged logs.

If the water is below axle deep, no water bra is needed. Crossings deeper than camper trailer floor height should only be attempted if the offroad camper trailer is as watertight as possible. Most mid-sized 4WDs have a wading depth of around 600–700mm. The trailer should match this. If the water is deeper than this, find another way, or wait for the water to go down.

If you decide to do the crossing, enter gently and drive at a speed that creates a small bow wave at the front. Keep the speed constant and don’t try to change gear. If it’s deep or swift flowing water, it’s also a good idea to attach a snatch strap at either end before you start the crossing so that you can be instantly recovered. If this isn’t possible, look for an alternate route and ask yourself; is a couple of minutes searching for another way around really worth risking your 4WD and camper trailer?

REVERSING WITH A CAMPER TRAILER

Reversing with a camper trailer can be one of the trickiest tasks asked of any driver, particularly in difficult terrain. If you have the option, swing the camper trailer to the driver’s side of the 4WD. It’ll make it easier to see exactly what the trailer is doing, and make steady adjustments to the steering.

If you need to conduct a tight three point turn, get a mate to guide you back till you almost jack-knife the trailer. If you try and do it alone you’ll more than likely do more moves than necessary, or you’ll contact the trailer with the vehicle.

PUTTING IT INTO PRACTICE

What’s the point in getting to a remote destination if you can’t stay there for long enough to enjoy it? Using these tips and a level-headed approach, you’ll be able to tow your camper trailer anywhere in Australia.